Bagheria From the Train, A Glimpse of Sicily Between Palermo and Cefalù
The train journey from Palermo to Cefalù is more than a convenient way to reach one of Sicily’s most beautiful coastal towns. It is a…
Cefalù’s Monument to the Fallen, Remembering the Great War in Sicily
Discover Cefalù’s First World War memorial, its bronze soldier, commemorative wreath and the significance of remembrance in early November.
Monumento ai Caduti della Guardia di Finanza in Sicilia, Palermo’s Hidden Memorial on Via Cavour
A closer look at the Guardia di Finanza memorial at Via Cavour 2 in Palermo, its bronze sculpture, roll of honor and secluded garden setting.
Piazza Rivoluzione, Palermo’s Fountain of Liberty and the Genius of the City
An in-depth guide to Piazza Rivoluzione in Palermo, its mysterious Genius fountain, the 1848 revolution, Kalsa’s architecture and the best ways to explore the square.
Church of Sant’Anna la Misericordia, Palermo’s Dramatic Baroque Facade
Discover the Church of Sant’Anna la Misericordia in Palermo, its sculptural eighteenth-century Baroque facade, earthquake history and atmospheric Piazza Sant’Anna.
Visiting Cefalù in November, Sicily Without the Summer Crowds
A quieter November visit to Cefalù reveals its historic streets, Norman cathedral, dramatic La Rocca and everyday Sicilian character.
Medieval Toilets in Cefalù, Sicily, A Surprising Glimpse into Everyday History
A curious historic sanitation facility in Cefalù reveals the practical side of Sicily’s architectural past.
Teatro Politeama in Palermo Is Best Seen From the Edge of the Piazza
Most people meet the Teatro Politeama on their way somewhere else. You come up Via Ruggero Settimo from the old town, the street opens out,…
Palermo Diocesan Museum Adds Context to a Cathedral Visit
The entrance to Palermo’s Diocesan Museum is easy to treat as another handsome doorway in a city full of them. It is worth noticing as…
Fontana Pretoria in Palermo Rewards a Slow Walk Around the Square
Palermo’s Piazza Pretoria is best approached slowly. The fountain occupies the square so completely that the surrounding buildings can feel like a backdrop, but the…
Palermo Courtyards and Hidden Architectural Details Worth Slowing Down For
Beyond Palermo’s celebrated landmarks, arcaded courtyards and small architectural details reward a slower walk through the historic center.
Palermo Must-See Guide, the Places I Would Never Let a Friend Skip
My Palermo must-see list, from the gold of the Cappella Palatina and Monreale to Serpotta’s oratories, the Ballarò market and the street food worth queuing for, with practical notes on opening days and tickets.
Lisbon Is So Multilayered, Literally
From bustling Rua Augusta to the pastel houses climbing the hills, Lisbon reveals an extraordinary city built in layers.
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Quimper: An Incredible Art Museum in Brittany
Discover the remarkable Musée des Beaux-Arts de Quimper, where Breton painting and the artistic legacy of the Pont-Aven School make for an unforgettable museum visit.
Florence Leaves Room for the Unexpected
A towering contemporary sculpture, warm Florentine facades and the everyday movement of Piazza della Signoria reveal a city that is more than its familiar Renaissance image.
Why Bordeaux Is Never Boring
Bordeaux stays interesting in the space between its monuments, where cafe tables, shopping streets and everyday life keep changing the view.
Évora, a Roman Temple, a Chapel of Bones and a Walled Town in the Alentejo
Évora is still wrapped in its walls, with a Roman temple on the hilltop and a chapel lined with bones. Come for the day, but stay for the evening.
Porte de Bourgogne Marks the Entrance to Historic Bordeaux
Begin a walk through historic Bordeaux at Porte de Bourgogne, the eighteenth-century stone gateway facing the Pont de Pierre.
What Museum Rooms Tell Us Before We Look at the Exhibits
A museum visit begins before you read the first label. The entrance establishes a pace, a staircase draws you upward, and the first room suggests…
The First Hour After Arriving in an Unfamiliar City
The first hour in a new city is often spent trying to make it resemble the plan. You find the hotel, open a map, check…
Bom Jesus do Monte and the Art of the Climb in Braga
White zigzagging walls, sculpted fountains and deep woodland make the ascent to Braga’s Bom Jesus do Monte a journey worth taking slowly.
Quimper, Brittany: A Gothic Cathedral, Medieval Walls and Gardens Full of Color
Discover Quimper in Brittany, where Saint-Corentin Cathedral rises above medieval stone walls and the colorful Jardin de la Retraite.
Largo do Chiado at Night: A Brasileira, the Bronze Poet and a Floor Made of Waves
The frame is taken from standing height, phone held out at chest level, somewhere near the top of Rua Garrett where the street opens into…
Sintra at Noon, Venice at Midnight: Six European Cities and the Hour That Suits Them
Photo essay · Six frames A tiled cloister at noon, an empty campo near midnight, a beer garden in the twenty minutes when the sky…