Palermo’s Piazza Pretoria is best approached slowly. The fountain occupies the square so completely that the surrounding buildings can feel like a backdrop, but the relationship between stone figures, water basins and architecture is the real pleasure of the place.
Stand at one edge before moving closer. The different levels of the fountain create changing lines of sight, and the statues reveal themselves in groups rather than all at once. The square sits within the historic center, making it an easy stop between Quattro Canti and the surrounding streets.
It is a good place to photograph from several angles, especially when the light picks out the pale stone. Leave time to look beyond the fountain at the façades and the spaces between them. Palermo has a talent for making a small square feel grand.
For a broader route through the city, see the Palermo must-see guide.