Most people give Palermo a couple of days on the way to somewhere prettier in Sicily. I think that's backwards. I'd give it four days and make it the first stop, because the rest of the island reads more clearly once you've seen what a long line of foreign rulers left behind in its capital: Byzantine gold, Arab domes and gardens, Norman kings in porphyry tombs and Spanish … [Read more...] about Palermo Must-See Guide, the Places I Would Never Let a Friend Skip